Diet

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Wild desert tortoises consume a high-fiber, moderate-protein,

low-fat diet.  Captive tortoises tend not to consume as much

fiber as their wild counterparts because of the type and variety

of foodstuffs offered to them.



Mature tortoises should be allowed to graze in a grass-filled

yard.  This most closely resembles feeding habitats in the wild.

Natural foods, such as grass, dandelions, clover, alfalfa

hay, rose petals, and hibiscus and nasturtium flowers are

preferred for captive desert tortoises.  Spinach, broccoli,

Swiss chard, alfalfa and bean sprouts, green beans, mixed

vegetables, in addition to water-packed tuna and chicken meat,

are good supplements.  Various types of fruits can be offered,

too.  Dry dog food adds protein, vitamins and minerals to the

diet of captive tortoises and can be fed in moderation twice

weekly.  Avoid feeding products with a high fat content because

excessive fat is undesirable and also becomes rancid quickly.



A completely natural diet (one that a wild tortoise would select

for itself) can rarely be exactly duplicated in captivity.  For

this reason, and because the exact nutritional requirements of

tortoises are unknown, vitamin-mineral supplementation is

advised.  Powdered supplements intended for reptiles (Reptical

and Vita-Life, Terra-Fauna Products, Div. of G.M. Enterprises,

Mountain View, CA  94042; Reptovite, Verners Pet Products, Long

Beach, CA  90807) should be sprinkled over moistened food daily,

so the powder adheres.  We prefer the powdered vitamin-mineral-

amino acid supplement Nekton-Rep (Nekton Products, W. Germany)

and believe it to be superior to the other products listed above.



Some foods should not be offered to captive tortoises because

they are high in moisture (not in itself a detriment) and very

low in nutritional value (lettuce of all varieties, cabbage,

cucumbers, tomatoes, melons).  Tortoises seem to show a marked

preference for these types of foods and will, if given the

opportunity, feed on these to the exclusion of other food items

offered at the same time.  These foods should be offered in small

amounts only on occasion as a treat, or not at all.



Hatchlings are best started on expanded guinea pig chow pellets.

Place the pellets in a shallow saucer and add just enough water

to immerse them halfway.  The pellets slowly absorb the water and

expand, and then can be offered to the hatchlings.  This should

be the staple food to which grass clippings, clover, alfalfa

and bean sprouts, dandelion flowers and leaves, and chopped

mixed vegetables can be added.  Lettuce and the other similar

foods mentioned above should never be offered to hatchlings

because of the likelihood that they become habit-forming,

resulting in serious malnutrition.